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To knit or crochet... Is that the question?

9/28/2018

15 Comments

 
This is the third stop in the blog hop for Sock CAL 2018. Last week, Fay, talked to you about yarn choices in her post at Knit-it, Hook-it, Craft-it. Today is the official launch of Sock CAL 2018, so to commemorate, there are two posts to enjoy: this one and a second post, tomorrow Sunday, September 30. The fourth blog hop takes us  to Addydae Designs' blog to read up on Sock Anatomy.  (http://www.addydae.com) Happy Hopping!​
Welcome Socktober!! ​
​In the crafting world, many refer to October as Socktober because it is the month when sock making intensifies. Summer has passed, Autumn is in full blast and crafters in the Northern Hemisphere begin preparing for the colder months by making warmer attire. A common accessory for cooler temperatures is most definitely socks! 
​In the past, handmade sock making  was a  task delegated mostly to knitters. Crocheters were better known for creating slippers,  booties or the so called, "house socks". You know, the kind you walk around the house in on cold days; not meant to be used with outdoor foot wear.  

Over the past decade, however, many crochet designers have turned their attention to creating innovative sock designs that incorporate fine, high quality yarns and stretchy crochet stitches. This has made it possible to crochet socks that can actually be worn in shoes, trainers or boots. These recent designs create socks that are flexible and cozy without being girthy. Photo 1 shows one of my favorite socks on their way out on the town (Nope... it wasn't Halloween!). Does it surprise you that crocheted socks are gaining popularity as a practical accessory?
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Photo 1: Is he alive? socks. These were hooked using a self-striping yarn, 75/25 superwash merino in fingering weight.
In the past, the possibility of making crocheted socks was rejected by many crafters due to the fact that crochet fabric is quite different from knit fabric. Most knit stitches are created by pulling yarn through one loop on a needle. This creates stitches that are close and tight and, consequently, a fabric that is thin and has drape. Therefore, knit socks had a fabric density close to that of commercially manufactured socks.

In comparison, most crochet stitches are made by pulling yarn through at least two loops. This, in turn, creates stitches that are loose and open; and a fabric that is not only heavy and hefty, but that also has a more open weave. This type of fabric was not appropriate for producing  a fine, delicate wardrobe accessory; hence the rejection. However, over time, crochet sock designers learned to alter the density and flexibility of their finished socks through  their choice of stitch, fiber content, crochet gauge and hook size. Their end product would never be identical to that of the knitters, but they were producing exemplary, durable and elegant items. Photos 2 and 3 highlight the many  similarities between the sock construction of knit and crochet socks. 
​
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Photo 2: The "Exceptionally Ordinary socks" were a machine knit tube to which a hand knit cuff, heel and toe were later added. The yarns used were a 75/25 superwash merino/nylon yarn.
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Photo 3: The Sour Candy socks" were crocheted using a 75/25 superwash wool/nylon self patterning yarn and a contrasting color for toes, heels and cuffs.
 
​Differences in fabric density and drape, weren't the only obstacles faced when makers tried to create a crocheted sock that could stand up to the knitted version. There was also a problem with the stretch of the fabric. Since crochet fabric had little horizontal give, stretching the cuff of the crocheted sock to slide it over the heel (a measurement known as long heel girth or heel diagonal) presented a design challenge. Crochet sock designers accepted the challenge and found that using heel flaps and gussets (which add additional stitches to the foot before reaching the heel) along with increasing hook size at the heel by at least 0.5 mm and using stitches with more stretch (such as linked stitches or extended stitches) provided an adequate solution to this problem.

For example, t
he "Toil and trouble socks" of Photo 4 incorporate a short-row heel to build up extra rows and, therefore, extra space at the heel. The "Peanuts and Candy socks" shown in Photo 5 were constructed using crochet brioche on the foot. This creates a squishy, ribbed fabric that has a lot of stretch and padding.  
​
 
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Photo 4: "Toil and trouble socks", original design by Rohn Strong, were hooked using 80/20 BFL/Nylon. The sock has a short row heel.
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Photo 5: "Peanuts and Candy socks" with gusset, heel turn and heel flap. The design, by Addydae Designs, incorporates crochet brioche.
The above discussion brings about another ailment suffered by hand made socks: the Baggy Cuff Syndrome.  In any sock, the cuff must stretch in order for the sock to go on and off, but it is expected to return to its original shape. One reason why high wool content is preferred in sock yarns is because wool has "memory":  it springs back into shape. Thus, helping to reduce this ailment. The Baggy Cuff Syndrome is a problem present in both knit and crochet socks, however, it is exacerbated in crochet because of the lack of horizontal stretch.

To attend this issue, one recent suggestion is to add elastic thread to the cuff as it is knit. The elastic can also be hand sewn into the cuff, if and when it begins to slouch. For crochet socks, the cuff can be created using vertical rows, instead of crocheting in the standard horizontal direction as shown in Photo 6. This will increase the horizontal stretch of the fabric at the cuff. Another alternative is to incorporate your cuff into the leg of your sock with a stretchy stitch, as shown in Photo 7. 
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Photo 6: Is he alive? socks featuring a crochet ribbed cuff following the German Street Toe-up Socks pattern by Rohn Strong
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Photo 7: Socks made using the Raulston Sock pattern by Rohn Strong. The pattern has the cuff built into the leg.
The nature of crochet stitches definitely gives crocheted socks one advantage: naturally reinforced heels and toes.  Pulling through more than one loop makes crochet stitches resemble knots that are naturally reinforced.  The toes and heels of crochet socks have  a padded feel, especially if they are made using linked stitches. Since toes and heels are the parts of a sock that receive the most stress, many knitters use reinforcement thread along with their yarn to add strength to these parts. (You can read more about how handmade socks respond to wear and tear here.)
All this being said, I still question if it would be possible to create a sock that incorporates the strengths and best traits of both knitting and crochet. Must there always be competition and antagonism between the two crafts? I believe the answer is no. Both crafts have their merits so maybe  they could team up and create a stunning outcome. But this is a topic for another post. For now, let me simply state that I have played with the idea and find the results encouraging. Photos 8 and 9, show the results of some of my experiments. 
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Photo 8: This crochet sock was made following the Fallen Leaves sock pattern by Vicki Brown which I have modified to incorporate a 2 x 2 knitted rib as a cuff.
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Photo 9: A crochet sock that joins a knitted toe with a crocheted foot and heel and that ends with a knitted 2 x 2 rib for the cuff.
Whether you knit or crochet,  sock making can be fiddly. ​But, is ​this fussiness so unexpected?  After all, feet can vary significantly from one individual to the next. You may have long toes or short, deep arches or shallow ones, thin ankles or thick ones, and we all have our own preferences when it comes to sock length. Even with so many variations in contour and shape, constructing a comfortable, well-fit sock depends mostly on a few precise foot measurements and your crochet or knit tension. If you can take precise measurements and accurately determine your stitch gauge, you will be successful at making your socks; whether they be knit or crochet. Do not be dissuaded from sock making due to the bit of math involved in their construction. Luckily, most modern sock designs have the math worked into the pattern; making it even easier to complete this endeavor.
​Be you an experienced or a novice crafter, a knitter or a crocheter, all the fuss over making socks is totally worth the effort. Especially because there are so many yarn colorways that have been dyed  specifically with sock making in mind.  There are also so many amazing fiber blends to experiment with. With these additional factors added in, making socks can become quite an exciting adventure. But, beware my readers... sock making can create severe addiction!!! You have been warned. Now, go forth and prosper!
15 Comments
Tamara link
9/29/2018 01:21:54 am

Great post Caroline. You've provided a wonderful description of how crochet sock construction has evolved. I love the way you have illustrated your description with so many of your wonderful socks. I laughed when I read about the "Baggy Cuff Syndrome" too! A wonderful post to kick off our sock launch day!

Reply
Caroline link
9/29/2018 04:31:13 am

Thank you so much for stopping by! I know this is a busy day for you! I had so much fun sharing this post with all of you. It was an eye-opener for me as well, especially seeing how my own work has evolved. Thank you for this opportunity! Enjoy Yarndale for the both of us!

Reply
Sara
9/29/2018 05:23:26 am

Oh wow Caroline what a beautifully written and expressed 'ode to the crochet sock'. Wonderfully researched. I found it a really interesting read. Thank you:)

Loved finding out about all the whys and wherefores of crochet sock construction. Am definitely smitten with the idea of crochet socks. I love to try new things out. I wish I had a maths professor brain to help out but I manage knitted socks okay so I'm sure I can have some fun with crochet too.

I love the idea of mixing up crochet and knitting - it was something I came across when I had a play with knooking (knitting that you do with a slightly adapted crochet hook, apparently to simplify things for crocheters, but to my mind it is actually harder if still fun). I found that there were people in Japan doing combined knitting and crochet projects and they looked stunning.

Glad to see the crochet socks buzz being created. I love crochet and am loving to see all the other wonderful garments being made recently too. Your own and Clarisabeth's are right up there with the best - very inspiring!

I always watch and enjoy your podcasts, please keep going :)

Reply
Caroline Rodriguez
9/30/2018 05:46:49 pm

Hello Sara! Thanks for hopping over. I had great fun writing up this post, so I am glad you enjoyed it. Though my intention was not to glorify crochet socks, but to present them as a viable alternative, if you don't want to learn how to knit. I find I am still very much intimidated by knitting... so although I love knit socks, I feel much more confident when I am crocheting them. You have made me curious about Japanese crafting. I think I would like to see more of their projects. Thanks for sharing and Keep hopping!

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Clarisabeth Lopez
9/29/2018 07:00:51 am

This was such a fun, well researched article! I absolutely love all of your crochet socks. Thank you for this article!

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Caroline Rodriguez
9/30/2018 05:49:53 pm

Thanks for reading this! It was a pleasure to write up and an eye-opener into my own growth as a sock crocheter. Keep hopping this month, there are many interesting topics to come!

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Elaine
9/29/2018 03:07:20 pm

Loved all the info here, as a newbie to sock making I need all the help I can get, and this certainly helps!!.thanks again!

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Caroline Rodriguez
9/30/2018 05:53:59 pm

Hello Elaine!
Glad you decided to hop over to my blog corner. I hope I have been able to encourage you to take up your hook and crochet a sock. There are many good alternatives for beginners in the Crochet Luna Ravelry Group where the chatter thread is being hosted. If I can be of any further assistance, I am reading and responding to the chatter in this group when I can. I am also on Ravelry as InspiredProfessor and I would be glad to be of help. Happy crafting!

Reply
Fay
9/29/2018 10:12:56 pm

Caroline, the US a fab blog post. I love all of your crocheted sock photos to punctuate the points made. I am very interested in your knitted ribbing escapades, to create a very wearable, speedy sock!

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Caroline Rodriguez
9/30/2018 06:00:33 pm

Hello Fay! So glad you took the hop over this way! I am still intimidated by knitting and definitely not as skilled as in crochet, but I like the idea of using each craft where it is most virtuous. And, even though, overall, I find that I am faster at making crochet socks than knit socks... the actual ribbing is just as time consuming in crochet as it is in knitting, or maybe even more. So I will definitely continue experimenting with this.

May wool always be with you!

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Joyce
9/30/2018 10:18:43 am

Really good points. Perhaps a knitted sock with a crochet heel and toe would make the perfect sock

Reply
Caroline Rodriguez
9/30/2018 06:04:20 pm

Hello Joyce! Thank you for hopping over! Crafty minds think so much alike. Knitted cuff, foot and leg with a crocheted toe and heel is definitely the next combination I want to try. Stay tuned!

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Marta link
9/30/2018 11:53:54 pm

What an interesting post!! It’s interesting to read about how crochet sock designs have evolved and the hurdles that have been overcome! Lots of lovely photos too, thanks!
Marta xx

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Caroline
10/10/2018 05:09:03 am

Thanks for hopping over, Marta! It was an eye-opening experience to see my journey with crochet socks. So glad I got this opportunity!

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atikul link
1/28/2022 07:17:47 pm

What an interesting post !! Like all the info here, I need all the help I can get as a newbie to making socks, and it definitely helps !! Lots of great pictures too, thanks!

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    To work with ones hands is to be a laborer; to work with ones hands and brain is to be a craftsman; but to work with ones hands, brain and heart is to be an artist. - Louis Nizer

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    About me:
    Caroline Rodriguez

    Many years ago I discovered that there was a crafty side to me. Since then, there have even been times when I have considered taking up crafting as a full time job. But, I guess that is something I have heard most people who practice some craft say.  Someday... one day... Until then...  I guess I'll just blog about it. Thanks for being part of the crafty side of my life! 

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